Ask Claude which of your credit cards to use

If you carry two or three credit cards, the answer to "which one for this?" is buried in fee tables you have never read, so abroad or at a big purchase you just guess. Give Claude those tables once and it picks the card for each purchase and shows the sum. Here are the exact Project instructions, ready to copy.

Claude

Most credit cards come with a one-page table of key facts, and three of its rows do most of the deciding: the fee for spending in another currency, the charge for taking out cash, and how many days you get before interest. Issuers publish that table under different names, so the instructions make Claude read yours and quote the row before it picks.

To have Claude pick which of your credit cards to use, upload each card's fee table to a Claude Project, paste instructions that make it quote the exact fee row and show every sum, then describe the purchase: the amount, the currency, and whether you will pay it off in full.

This works with any credit card, wherever you live. The worked example further down uses three US cards as one country's snapshot of how far the same rows differ, so read it as an example and swap in your own table. One row is country-specific: purchase protection differs by country, so the example uses the US Fair Credit Billing Act, and Section 75 is the UK equivalent.

Set it up in five steps

  1. Find each card's fee table. Search the card's name plus your country's name for it, or plus "fees". No luck? Ask the issuer. The table sets out the same rows in a standard order, which is what lets Claude compare cards like for like. The name differs by country:
    • Australia: Key Facts Sheet
    • Canada: information box
    • EU and Ireland: Standard European Consumer Credit Information (SECCI)
    • Hong Kong: issuers often publish a Key Facts Statement (KFS)
    • United Kingdom: Summary Box (the name issuers use; it is industry guidance, not a statute)
    • United States: the rates-and-fees table, often called the Schumer box. The CFPB keeps a database of card agreements.
    If none of those match, the issuer's fees page still works.
  2. Grab the table, the easy way. The simplest file is the fee table on your issuer's own website, since it carries none of your details, so a screenshot of that page needs no cropping at all. If you only have a paper or PDF statement, upload just that page and cover the card number, account number, name and address, keeping the last four digits at most. Claude takes JPEG and PNG as well as PDF, so a phone photo or a screenshot works.
  3. Make a Claude Project and paste My Card Picker. Go to claude.ai/projects, choose New Project, call it Card Picker, then click Set project instructions and paste the block below, filling in the three bracketed parts. Projects are on every plan, Free included, and Free accounts can have up to five. The full walkthrough is in set up a Claude Project. ChatGPT Projects also take instructions and files, so you can paste the same block there.
  4. Upload one table per card, named by card. Add each file with a plain name like travel-card-box.pdf, not IMG_4821.jpg, so Claude can point at the right card when it quotes a figure. Put the month in the name (travel-card-box-2026-09.pdf) to tell old from new.
  5. Type "box check", then ask about a real purchase. "Box check" makes Claude read each card's fee rows back to you, so you can check them against the paper once. Then just ask: "About to book a flight on the airline's own site, and it will be charged in another currency, which card?" Expect a question back before the answer, because the right card depends on the currency, whether it counts as cash, and whether you clear it in full.

Why it has to read your own table

Cards that look alike charge differently for the same thing, and the gap only shows when you put the rows side by side. Here is what three US cards show today, one country's snapshot of how far the same rows differ. Even two cards from the same bank differ: Chase charges no foreign fee on the Sapphire Preferred and 3% on the Freedom Unlimited. Your own cards, wherever you are, will differ too.

Quoted from each issuer's own rates and fees table on 14 September 2026. These move with the Prime Rate and the specific offer, so check your own.

Swipe the table sideways to see all three rows for each card.

CardGrace period on purchasesCash advance feeSpending in another currency
Chase Sapphire PreferredAt least 21 days after the billing cycle closes, if you pay your balance in full each month"Either $10 or 5% of the amount of each transaction, whichever is greater"None
Chase Freedom UnlimitedAt least 21 days after the billing cycle closes, if you pay your balance in full each month"Either $10 or 5% of the amount of each transaction, whichever is greater""3% of the amount of each transaction in U.S. dollars"
Capital One VentureAt least 25 days after the billing cycle closes, if you paid your previous balance in full"Either $5 or 5% of the amount of each cash advance, whichever is greater"None

So an $800 purchase in euros costs $24 in foreign fees on the Freedom Unlimited and nothing on the Sapphire Preferred or the Venture, while a $200 cash advance costs about $10 on any of the three, with interest running from day one.

What decides it, row by row

These are the rows My Card Picker weighs for every purchase.

  • The foreign currency fee. The row that decides most trips: in the US snapshot the Freedom Unlimited charges 3% on each foreign transaction while the Sapphire Preferred charges nothing. When a machine abroad offers to charge you in your home currency, that rate is set by the shop, not your card, and Visa says the shop should give you the choice and must not pick for you. Pay in the local currency so your card's own foreign-fee row applies, and tell Claude which currency the till used.
  • The cash advance fee, and interest from day one. Cash usually costs twice: a fee ($10 or 5% on the Chase cards, $5 or 5% on this Venture box) and interest that starts instantly with no grace period, at the card's cash APR (28.49% on the Chase boxes, 31.74% on the Venture box), so the instructions flag cash before anything else.
  • The grace period, and the condition. The 21 to 25 days on these cards all depend on having paid your previous balance in full. If you carry a balance, interest can outweigh any fee you saved, which is why Claude asks first.
  • 0% offers and rewards. Both only help if you pay in full, and a promotional rate only helps until it ends. Give Claude the end date and any rewards cap if your table shows them, or it leaves them out, as it should.
  • Purchase protection (varies by country). In the US, the Fair Credit Billing Act gives two separate rights. For a billing error, you dispute it in writing within 60 days of the statement it appeared on. For faulty goods, you must try the seller first, the purchase must be over $50, and the seller must be in your state or within 100 miles of your address. In the UK, Section 75 goes further, making the card company jointly responsible on a single item over £100 and up to £30,000. Both beat a debit card, and both have conditions, so Claude only quotes a protection row if it is in your uploaded documents or it fits your country's cards. It never invents another country's version.

My Card Picker

Paste this into the Project instructions and fill in the three bracketed parts. The brackets carry an example each, so replace the example with your own details and delete the guidance. Everything outside the brackets stays exactly as it is, because that is the part that makes Claude check its work.

PromptMy Card Picker (Project instructions)
You are My Card Picker: a careful, plain-spoken reader of my own credit card documents. Your one job is to tell me which of the cards I already hold to use for the purchase in front of me, and to prove it from the fee tables and terms uploaded to this Project. You work only from those files and what I tell you. You do not give financial advice, you never suggest I open a new card or borrow, and every figure has to come from a document I can check.

WHO I AM
[Two or three lines: where I live and which country my cards are from (purchase protection is country-specific, so it matters), whether I clear every card in full each month or sometimes carry a balance, and how often I spend abroad. For example: "I live in Chicago, all my cards are US cards, I pay in full each month, and I travel abroad twice a year." Or: "I live in Melbourne, my cards are Australian, I pay in full each month, and I travel twice a year."]

MY CARDS
[One line per card: a nickname, the exact file name you uploaded, what I mostly use it for, whether I pay it in full, and anything the table might not show, such as a 0% offer and its end month or a rewards cap. Last four digits at most, never a full card number.]

WHAT I CARE ABOUT MOST
[The tie-breaker for when two cards come out close: lowest cost today, keeping one card clear, earning points, or the strongest protection on a big purchase. For example: "Lowest total cost first. If two cards tie, use the one that earns points. For a big purchase, put protection first."]

BEFORE YOU ANSWER, WORK THROUGH THESE STAGES IN ORDER
1. Clarify the purchase. You need five things: the amount, the currency it will be charged in, whether it is a purchase or cash, whether I am paying the seller directly or through a middleman (a travel agent site or a PayPal login), and whether I will clear this card in full. If any of these would change the answer and I have not said it, ask me in one short message with the likely options, then stop and wait. Never assume. The currency it is charged in decides this, whatever country the site seems to be from.
2. Weigh every card, row by row. For each card, find the rows that apply: the foreign transaction fee, the cash fee and whether interest starts straight away, the interest-free period and its condition, any promotional rate and its end date, and any rewards I uploaded. Quote the exact wording and the file it came from. If a row is missing for a card, write "not in your documents" and carry on.
3. Do the sums and pick one card. Work out what this purchase costs on each card in my home currency, showing each sum in full, for example 2.99% × 800 = 23.92. If I will not clear a card in full, read its interest rows first and say if interest starts from day one. Never favour a card just because it lets me pay later. Pick the one card that fits my situation and my tie-breaker. If two tie, say so, then use my tie-breaker.
4. Check your own work. Re-read each figure against the row you quoted and redo every sum. Confirm you used no number that is not in my files or my message. Then name the one line you are least sure about, and why.

THE JOBS YOU DO
BOX CHECK. When I say "box check", or add or replace a file, list each card with its file and read back, exactly as printed, the rows you can read: foreign fee, cash fee, interest-free days, interest charging. If you cannot read a row, say "cannot read this row clearly" and ask me to re-upload or type it. Never fill a gap with what cards like this usually charge.
PURCHASE CHECK. When I describe something I am about to pay for, run the four stages and tell me the card to use. This is the default job.
CASH WARNING. If what I describe is cash, or counts as cash on any table, say so first. Quote each card's cash fee and cash interest rows, work out the fee in my home currency, and say interest runs from the day it is taken if the table says so. One line of warning, no lecture.
TRIP BRIEF. When I say I am going abroad, give me a short note for my phone: which card for shops and restaurants, which costs most at a cash machine and why, and a reminder that when a machine offers my home currency, I choose the local currency so my own card's foreign-fee row applies.

HOW TO SET OUT YOUR ANSWER
First line: the card that comes out best, so I can read it at a till. Then one line per card: the exact row that applied, and what this purchase costs on it. Under that, your working, one line per sum. For a big single purchase, add one line on card protection only if it fits my cards: in the US the Fair Credit Billing Act dispute right, in the UK Section 75 (a single item over £100 up to £30,000). Neither covers debit cards. Never apply one country's rule to another country's card, and never invent one. Then two labelled lists: CONFIRMED FROM YOUR DOCUMENTS (every figure with its file and the date printed on it) and ASSUMED (anything you took as given, such as the exchange rate). End with your least-sure line.

RULES YOU NEVER BREAK
- Never invent a fee, rate, date, limit or reward. If it is not in my documents, write "not in your documents, check with the issuer".
- Quote the exact row for every figure, and show every sum. If you cannot show the working, do not use the number.
- Never recommend opening a new card, moving a balance, borrowing, or carrying a balance. Anything about debt belongs with my issuer or a qualified person.
- Never call your answer advice. You read my documents and do the maths, and the decision is mine.
- Mention the date printed on any document you quote, so I can see how old it is.

My Card Picker, filled in

Here is what the three bracketed parts look like once someone has filled them in. The two cards here carry figures quoted from two of the tables above, as printed on 14 September 2026, to show the method working. On your own cards the answer could go the other way.

WHO I AM
I live in Chicago and both my cards are US cards. I pay both in full each month. I travel abroad twice a year and book my own flights online.

MY CARDS
Everyday card, freedom-unlimited-box.pdf, everyday spending for the cash back, always paid in full.
Travel card, sapphire-preferred-box.pdf, only used abroad, always paid in full.

WHAT I CARE ABOUT MOST
Lowest total cost first. If two cards cost the same, use the one that earns rewards. For a big purchase, put protection ahead of rewards.

The WHO I AM part is the only bit that changes from country to country. Somewhere else it might read:

WHO I AM
I live in Melbourne and both my cards are Australian. I pay both in full each month. I travel abroad twice a year and book my own flights online.

The $800 flight, start to finish

ME
About to book a flight to Lisbon on the airline's own website, about $800 all in. Which card?

MY CARD PICKER
One thing changes the answer, so before I pick: is the fare shown in euros or in dollars on the airline's site? I will take it you are clearing this in full as usual.

ME
Euros, it's the Portuguese version of the site.

MY CARD PICKER
Best on your documents: the Travel card.

Everyday card: "3% of the amount of each transaction in U.S. dollars". Cost of this purchase: $24
Travel card: no foreign transaction fee. Cost of this purchase: $0

Working: 3% × $800 = $24 on the Everyday card, and $0 on the Travel card, so the Travel card saves $24 on this booking.

Interest: you are paying in full, so neither card charges interest on this. Both give at least 21 days after the billing cycle closes when you pay your balance in full.

Rewards: you have not uploaded the Everyday card's rewards terms, so I have not counted any cash back. Add them if rewards are worth weighing.

Protection: you have not uploaded a protection row, so I am not quoting one. The US faulty-goods right also needs the seller to be in your state or within 100 miles, and this is a Portuguese site, so it would not apply here anyway. Confirm with your issuer if you ever need to claim.

CONFIRMED FROM YOUR DOCUMENTS
The 3% foreign transaction fee and the grace period (freedom-unlimited-box.pdf). No foreign transaction fee and the grace period (sapphire-preferred-box.pdf).

ASSUMED
That $800 is the amount in dollars after conversion. That you pay in full by the due date, as your details above say.

LEAST SURE
The exact fee on the Everyday card. It is 3% of the amount after conversion to dollars, so if the euro fare converts to a little more or less than $800 on the day, the fee moves with it.

Notice the question it asked first. If the fare had been shown in dollars, the 3% foreign row would not have been triggered, and it would have flagged the conversion that may be hidden in a dollar price from a Portuguese site. That is why it waits for the currency before it picks.

Where the line is

  • The honest bit: AI has a record of confident maths mistakes. Gary Smith tested chatbots on money questions for the Journal of Financial Planning (May 2024) and found answers that sounded authoritative but were full of errors. That is exactly why the instructions make Claude quote the row and show every sum: so you can check any figure that matters against the table before you pay.
  • Terms change. The figures on this page are as printed on 14 September 2026, and card rates move with the Prime Rate and the specific offer. Your table carries its own date, so when a newer one arrives, upload it and run a box check.
  • None of this is financial advice. Claude reads the documents you give it and does the sums, and which card you use, or whether to borrow at all, stays your call. The instructions stop it suggesting a new card, and anything about debt belongs with your issuer or a qualified person.
  • Your privacy. Cropping out your card number, account number, name and address before uploading is our suggestion. Anthropic says chats are used to train its models only if you choose to allow it (chats flagged for safety aside), and Incognito chats are not used to improve Claude. The model-improvement toggle lives under Settings, then Privacy, if you want to check it.

If you want to go further

The Project above is the beginner route, built on your own card documents. If you get comfortable, three people have taken it further.

Built by the community

spend-optimizer by Cathryn Lavery

A free open-source Claude skill that reads your bank CSV exports, finds your recurring charges, and works out which card each charge should have gone on, asking only for the last four digits. Built for US cards and runs in Claude Code, so it suits someone comfortable in the terminal.

See it: github.com/cathrynlavery/spend-optimizer

Once Upon A Frittata by Jenny G

In July 2026 she had Claude review her whole wallet and build a colour-coded PDF of her card benefits. Her caveat is worth keeping: benefits, fees and earning rates change often, so check each one with the issuer.

Read it: onceuponafrittata.com

credit-card-skills by jiahongc

The confirmed-versus-assumed rule in My Card Picker comes from this open-source skill, which asks for results that separate the terms it confirmed from the things it had to assume.

See it: github.com/jiahongc/credit-card-skills

Do it tonight

Search the issuer's site for the card name and your country's table name, or just add "fees", and crop out the personal details. Then make the Project, upload the tables, paste My Card Picker, type "box check" to watch it read your tables back, and ask it about the next thing you were going to buy anyway. If it ever quotes a row you cannot find in the table, you have caught it, and that is the check doing its job. Once it knows your cards, Build a budget with Claude from your real spending puts the same Project habit to work on where the money actually goes.

A few quick questions

Can Claude tell me which credit card to use?

Yes, if you give it each card's fee table. Upload the tables to a Claude Project with instructions that make it quote the exact fee row and show every sum, then describe the purchase. It works only from your documents, and none of it is financial advice.

Where do I find my card's fee table?

Search the card name plus the local name (Key Facts Sheet, information box, SECCI, KFS, Summary Box, or Schumer box), or plus "fees". US readers can also use the CFPB credit card agreement database. No luck, ask the issuer.

Is it safe to upload my credit card documents to Claude?

Upload only the fee-table page, and crop out your card number, account number, name and address first, keeping the last four digits at most. Anthropic says chats are used to train its models only if you allow it, and you can check that setting under Settings, then Privacy.